Hikes in Taüll and Life in Spain

We finally met up with our hiking pal, Max, (forgive the up-the-nose selfie), and after another Barcelona night, we grabbed the AVE bullet train to Lledia. For the record, the train was inexpensive, on time, and did 185 mph at the top speed. It was a smooth and quiet ride the whole way. Trains are just so, so, right, and every time I'm in Europe and use them, I'm a little angry and embarrassed to not have them in the US. Thanks for listening to my rant, I feel better now.

We were picked up at the train station in Lledia by Jeremy of Iberian Adventures, our host for the next six days. More on Jeremy later. Jeremy constructed a series of six hiking adventures out of two towns, Taüll and Torla, each near a different Spanish Pyrenees National Park along the northern border of Spain.

Because of the pace of hiking, resting (kind of) and then late night eating, I've been playing catch up on these posts . . . possibly as it should be. Pretty marginal WiFi in most places so far, too. So here's a taste of the high points from the first town.

Our first destination was a two-hour drive to the very small and old town of Taüll (pronounced Tah-ool), high up in the hills and near the first national park in the Vall de Boí. Yup, Valley of the Boy. It's a town made mostly of the local stone and built in the 800's. It's very much like the MANY similar towns that dot the Spanish countryside in this part of the world. Each town has narrow streets and a small church. And each is beautiful in it's own right.

Our hotel in Taüll was the El Rantiner, it looked like the other stone-constructed places in the village and high up in the valley just outside of town. Our room had an awesome valley view. To give you a sample of the age of these towns, the small church in the photo just below our hotel is over 1100 years old!

The Romanesque Church of St. Clement de Taüll is one of the reasons the town is historically significant. While the exact day it was built is unknown, the best local guess is somewhere around 900 AD. It took till the 12th century for the church to be consecrated. The church is part of the reason Taüll and the surrounding area is a Unesco World Heritage site.

It was a short national park bus ride from our hotel to the Aiguestortes I Estany de Sant Maurici National Park. Our host, Jeremy, being an all around great guy, with 15 years in the custom tour business, knew we would need time to adapt to the almost 5000' of altitude in the village. He was kind to have our first hike on arrival day be only an hour and a half and mostly downhill. There was nothing in Minnesota to gear me up for just about anything starting at or above that altitude. In fact, going up the stairs to our room was a breathy experience. The next day was a big wake-up call for me.

Before I tell you about the first BIG hike, you might find it interesting to learn about breakfast in these hotels. It's a similar drill in most of all the hotels and it parallels what you'd find in a freeway hotel in the US, only way better. It's really a grand buffet of breads and pastries (great croissants), yogurts (some homemade), fruits, melons, cheeses, a selection of dried ham, meats, and cheeses. There are always teas and the best ever coffee con leche or coffee and hot milk. I've yet to figure out how they keep the milk so hot without it getting that little film of yuck on it but it's always fresh tasting. That happened every day for six days. Now imagine facing all that and then going on a big hike! That also happened every day. Moan!

10 Points if you can
name this mushroom!

In each of the two national parks, Jeremy had arranged a local mountain guide with high mountain certifications and year round skills. I don't mean your average tour guide, even though these guys really knew everything about the landscape, flowers, and even the mushrooms. They could have also taken us to high altitudes, mountaineering, rock or ice climbing, canyoneering, or just about any dangerous mountain activity you could imagine, and do so in any season! Our first guide was Moises or Moses. I couldn't shake the feeling that they were seriously under-employed getting an out of breath elder guy and his younger and more in-shape pals up the mountain.

The most important thing I learned from them was how to walk! Seriously, how to take on hikes at more altitude than you're used to by taking REALLY small steps, NOT pushing off with your toes (to save calf muscles), and to have a very slow rhythm. It felt monastic walking that slowly, but because if it, I did have the energy to finish the hike.

The lake bottom center is pictured above!

We did two big hikes in Taüll after the warm up. The first one was about five hours to a high valley saddle above two beautiful mountain lakes. There were giant vistas on both sides, and cows with bells were everywhere, reminding us of the hikes we'd done with Max and our pals in Switzerland. The second was a seven hour hike to a peak above a different saddle. Really big hike with a grand vista. In spite of sore feet, legs, okay everything, it was so worth it.

Gwen being in generally better shape than me, and Max coming fresh from hiking in Switzerland, were both really patient with my struggle to breath. The guide also helped us all by keeping the pace slow and easy. Needless to say, I was dead tired each night. But it turns out the evening is when the real challenge began.

We'd always share an after-hike beer or two with some tapas to celebrate the hike and the fact that we came back at all. In those moments I briefly felt like a conquering hero. Being really tired from the mountain adventure, having a couple little tapas and cold beer with your hiking companions was a true balm for my tattered soul. But remember, this is late afternoon.

Awesome Tapas

Then the beer would meet up with the considerable fatigue from the  hike effort and the previous marginal nights sleep, and I'd have to drag myself back to the hotel. That would usually be about 5:30-6 PM. For reasons I could never understand, the rest of the crew were always somehow hungry at that time and ready for dinner! That meant I had about an hour to shower, collapse on the bed for a 30 minute nap, and then get dressed in time to head out for a walk through the village to eat. No I should say drag myself around the narrow streets of the village to eat again!

There's no use going out for dinner before 8 or 8:30 anywhere in Spain. Don't even ask because the answer is "What?" while cocking their head like a dog watching TV. It's just not going to happen. When you do sit to eat, the food is tasty, inexpensive, often grown locally, and served with nice local wines. The pace of dinning is comfortably slow. That means you go to bed at eleven, full of a big meal, try to sleep, and then start the whole cycle over with a big breakfast at 8 AM the next day! Getting the picture? Six days!

REALLY tired hikers!

I'll tell you about the hikes in Torla in the next post. I've got to clean up to go eat or sleep, or nap, or pack . . . I've lost track. But we are all having fun, and getting more fit every day.

Love from Earl, Gwen and Max!