Snorkeling, Seals, Old Koloa Town, and Sunsets at the Plantation

Gwen and I were on our way for the first snorkeling experience for either of us in a long time. We are fortunate enough to have a protected cove just down the beach from where we are staying. That's when we saw the body.

It was a little unsettling to see the large seal lying on the beach barely breathing! The poor guy was all fenced off with what looked like crime scene tape and people were keeping a respectful distance. We had just had a big storm go through and I'm thinking the creature got tossed around badly and wound up on the shore to die. I was way off the mark.

The monk seal is known in Hawaii as "īlio holo i ka uaua," which means "dog running in the rough seas." Turns out the dude was partying all night in rough seas, playing, fishing and eating. The scene I came on was Mr. Seal doing the next thing monk seals like to do best, which is nap in the sun on a soft sand beach to rest and digest their evening meal. Apparently they lay there most of the day, oblivious to their surroundings, and aren't troubled by curious tourists. Because your average monk seal is smarter than most tourists, it was nice to see the Monk Seal Volunteers (who have taken the Monk Seal Pledge) out in force keeping photo crazed visitors from setting junior next to the big seal for a picture.

These seals have been on the federal endangered species list since the 1970′s, and sadly, the estimate is only 1100 remain in the islands. They have been hunted like the whales for their meat and oil, and and taken further damage from commercial fishing. Monk seals can get up to 7 feet in length and weigh in at 300 to 400 pounds. I'm thinking that means it's not a good idea to take long naps after eating so much.

"I'm thinking that means it's not a good idea
to take long naps after eating so much."

The snorkeling outing went just OK. Getting the mask on with breathing tube and then flippers is almost adventure enough. Then trying to actually get to the water with rocks under foot and waves coming in made us actually look like a pair of hard-working seals trying to get back home after a long nap. Actually the seals would have looked more graceful.

We had been given a little fish card at the snorkel hut that was full of promise, showing a couple dozen different varieties of colorful fish. Because of the popularity of the cove for beginners, once we did achieve the 3 foot snorkel depth, mostly what we saw was either a forest of white tourist legs or another inexperienced snorkel person coming right at you. Not pretty. We eventually did find the rocks the fish liked and we're able to check off a few colorful species from the chart.

Getting out of the water, by going back through the "forest," avoiding the kids and elders on the way out, and finding the shore left me, like the seal, just wanting to just nap in the sand. We may try again at one of the more secluded beaches. The island boast 91 beaches so it shouldn’t be hard.

After the snorkel adventure and Earl's nap, we headed off to the local farmers market to "buy local." What you see more of here that you don't find elsewhere are macadamia nut treats, fruits like mangoes, papaya, varieties of bananas (and banana breads), lots of fruits with unpronounceable names, and coconuts being whacked apart for drinking the fresh milk inside and eating the meat. With Very Friendly people, offering tastes of everything, it's just a great way to shop.

We are staying near the heart of Kauai's plantation history in the Old Town of Koloa. The Old Sugar Mill of Koloa was the first major sugar plantation in Hawaii in 1835. It launched commercial sugar production all across the islands and began the waves of immigrant laborers that make up Hawaii’s very diverse population today. In the bigger, newer town of Lihue, the locals have decided they need the likes of Costco, Walmart, and even McDonalds. The good folks of Koloa kept it real and vintage. I'm told that with some stabilization and paint, the place looks a lot like it did in the old days.

A big chunk of the original sugar mill is still visible in the center of town. Since arrival, it's been our go-to location for plate lunches (more on that soon), adult beverages, and my favorite, a Lappert's Hawaii, which is coconut-pineapple or Kauai Coffee flavored ice cream cone! See, I'm fussy about where I spend my calories.

Our base of operations is the Kiahuna Plantation Resort. Sunset at our Plantation home is the same ritual most places in the world where, A. you can see the sun go below the horizon, and B. there's a good chance it will be awesome. People line up their chairs on the big lawn just in front of the beach. Munchies are plenty and stories of the day are shared with acquaintances. If the sun and clouds do an extra special dance of color, there is applause all around. We've attended faithfully when we get back from our adventures in time for the evening and haven't been disappointed yet. Below is a video taste, turn up the volume for full effect.

Aloha till next post,

Earl and Gwen

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