When we left the airport, we hit a 25 mph zone on the road to the Poipu beach area where we are staying. On the map you can see we're on an island about 25 miles across in every direction, and there aren't a lot of roads in the first place.
Kauai is 550 square miles in area and 32 miles in diameter. If you look close, the black lines represent what I'm guessing to be maybe 200 miles of roads in total. Except for just a few places, they are all two lane, and 85% of those roads are 25 mph zones. Passing someone is not only precarious, but unnecessary because there is just another car doing 25 mph in front of you. When you hit a four-lane area with a 40 mph limit, the speed increase and freedom of movement is actually exhilarating!
There is also the matter of one-lane bridges. We have crossed many and learned bridge etiquette! Local protocol is to cross the bridges 5-7 cars at a time, or even fewer if you're really going to be in the Aloha spirit.
So, we have really slowed down to life at 25 mph, and like it here at that pace. It's very relaxing after you let go of the "got to get there" notions and just settle in to enjoy the considerable scenery.
Our destination on this day was to hike a few miles of the Na Pali coast. Along the way we stopped to watch 3 cute little pigs come out of the roadside brush and amble across the highway. We later found out they were first introduced by Polynesians 1500 years ago. Because they can have two litters with an average of 7 piglets each time, and they have no natural predators, the island now has more wild pigs than people! The estimated 400,000 piggies are considered an invasive species because they eat tons of plants, dig up the soil, and are a hazard to highway navigation. So much for cute!
Because of the 25 mph zones, the commercial areas, one-lane bridges, and slowing for piggies, it took about 90 minutes to cover the 40 miles to the trail head. Starting just north of the Wialua river, the road hugs the coastline on the right and there were tall green mountains and big ranch fields on the left. The drive is spectacular and 25 mph felt a little fast.
Just after the town of Hanalei (will revisit later), and at the very end of the highway, the 2 mile day hike to Hanakapiai Beach begins. The Kalalau Trail starts at
Ke'e Beach, and is the only way to see the lush jungle of the Na Pali coast line by land.
The full Na Pali coast line is only 17 miles long and most people see it from some kind of boat or by helicopter. We wanted it up close and personal.
While two miles sounds pretty easy, there were a few things we didn't count on. Lots of up and down, and 80 degree temps with high humidity. Then we found a very rocky trail which had been made muddy and slippery by the recent rains. We had come prepared with low hiking boots and poles, but it was still a hard hike for both of us. It was worth it.
The first of the two videos below is a shot of Hanakapiai Beach from the trail, and the second from the beach itself. They really are too short (I'm learning) and in any case, no video will do justice to the wildness of the place, the sound of the crashing waves (turn up your volume), and the refreshing feel of the cool water on tired feet.
And the beach itself:
The trail from
Hanakapiai Beach to the other end is another 9 miles, and 7 more hours of hiking. Most people do it in two days with a camp out on a beach along the way. Some don't get far at all!
On the trail out it was fun to see some of the same types of people hiking this trail that we see on the Tucson desert hikes. They head out with no water or food, in flip-flops, and with little kids along. They apparently don't die, but the suffering and fights with partners along the way has to be horrible.
Here's a shot of the very hot, dirty, and tired couple faking happiness for the camera at trail's end. It was worth whatever it took. A grilled fish taco in Hanalei and a long, slow drive back to sunset at the Plantation made it a wonderful day.
Next adventure is the kayak trip to a sacred waterfall!
Aloha!
Earl and Gwen
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