The Heart of Oaxaca, Jesus, and Tamales

The explosions started about 6 AM. What sounded like a small army invading the town were really fireworks announcing the day of the Fiesta of the Virgen de la Candelaria. A whole day dedicated to the (somewhat strange combination of) baby Jesus, candles, and tamales. What follows is my recovering Lutheran, North American understanding of the event. Baby Jesus first.

The very simple story is that the fiesta is not about THE baby Jesus, but the baby Jesuses! EVERY family has at least one baby Jesus. They come in all different sizes, some the size of a real baby, and most of whom have been reposing in the home manger scene since Christmas. For this fiesta, Jesus is taken out of the manger, and dressed up in a very fancy new outfit. Some of the outfits are little gowns or dresses, with new sandals and maybe a crown. Others are dressed like angels, doctors or nurses, and I saw one, inexplicably, dressed up as a Roman soldier!

The Jesuses are all gathered up and then, along with long candles, taken to the church at mid-day to be blessed in a special mass by the priest. It's a grand, four-hundred-year-old tradition of demonstrated faith, a kind of fashion show, and the joy of community.

 In Oaxaca, there are 29 churches and over a hundred neighborhood chapels. The small church we visited for the festival was the church of Cinco Senores, or the church of the five men. It is the home church of the Virgen de la Candelaria in Oaxaca. I'm not at all sure who the five guys are. People come from all over the town to this neighborhood church for this celebration. Out of respect for the event, with permission, I only took a couple pictures of the event. But it was clear that everyone was happy about the blessings, and after the special mass, there were more fireworks, music, and celebration long into the night.

As the story unfolds, the preceding January 6th is the day of the King. On that day, a special cake for the King is made and served. One of the slices of that cake contains a little plastic baby, and the person who gets the baby is happy to be chosen as the person who supplies the tamales, music, chocolate, beverages and all the elements of the Fiesta de la Candelaria. The associated feasting that follows the service is especially about tamales.

The Fiesta of the Virgen de la Candelaria has deep roots in a long cultural history going all the way back to Spanish and even Roman celebrations. Basically, the Candelaria (and candles) is the coming of the "light" personified by the baby Jesus. The corn tamales are connected to the planting of the corn and agricultural cycle. The food is so popular on this day, the Fiesta is also know as the Day of the Tamale! I'm thinking I got most of that right, then again, I'm an ex-Lutheran not a farmer!

This fiesta is one of many festivals, markets, and other special events that serve to bring the people of Oaxaca, even the reluctant, toward, into, and around the churches. In this way, Catholic "blood" keeps pumping though the heart of Oaxaca. The potency of this faith community colors every aspect of the lives of the Oaxacan people. I believe, thanks in part to baby Jesus and tamales, at the heart of this city there are so many happy and welcoming people. It's why, after two days here, I feel "at home."

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For now, Adios!